IP2 strip advice

[gripper]

Bit like the wristwatch guaranteed for life, when the mainspring goes it slashes your wrist.

[MrB]

Told a story by a domestic machine supplier who sold Miele's (v good by the way). He has a call from Miele HO saying an old dear of 75 odd years had phoned to complain that her 25 year old washing machine had failed. When bought she was told it had a lifetime warranty and, since she was still alive, she wanted to know what were they going to do about it! Instruction from Miele to machine repair man was give her a new machine! Now that is exceptional service.(off piste for the Rotary Forum I know, but as a genuine story it made me smile).Johnny.

[johnbirchjar]

Hi Guys, can someone explain to me the differance between clear plastic and black plastic?(apart from the obvious) J.B.

[rustynuts]

On an IP2 is it possible to remove the copper oil pipes from the engine without dropping the engine out of the frame? It dosen't look like there is much room to swing a spanner down there. I want to replace the plastic oil pipes with metal, so I need to remove the pipes on the back of the engine in order to either make the whole run in one piece or to chop their flared ends off so I can attach a wade union to them.

[Richard Negus]

Taking the engine out is the less frustrating option !BUT, before doing that, have a look at the mini pipe cutter sold by Vehicle Wiring Products http://www.vehicleproducts.co.uk , item 400088 on page 81 of their catalogue, at £3.95 + post + VAT.I have one ; it works very well on oil pipe and even on 4mm stainless pipe.R.

[rustynuts]

The mini pipe cutter worked perfectly. There was just enough clearance to turn it. My flares are now cut off (Man, they were just so 70s) and the Wade unions installed. Hopefully I will have enough time at the weekend to connect the pump to them. I have also taken the opportunity to drain down the oil tank ready for a change to synthetic.

[Richard Negus]

Dave,As well as draining the tank, take the opportunity to suck out the oil and grot that lies below the level of the outlet filter. You may even find some water there.R.

[rustynuts]

The metal pipes are now installed and she is now running on the finest oil money can buy, although she refused to start after the winter lay up until I fitted a new set of plugs (by the way - what plug gaps do you all normally use? - I still run the Sparkrite box.) I dredged the oil tank and pulled out a rusty bicycle wheel, a couple of condoms and an old supermarket trolley - actually it wasn't that bad; just a trace of moisture.The only bit of plastic oil pipe remaining is a short length connecting the oil tank outlet to the metal pipe. I didn't think it was worth fabricating an oil tank outlet to take a metal pipe fitting as the remaining bit of plastic is away form the heat of the engine and is visible for inspection.

[Richard Negus]

Always a critic, and I'm sure you'll say the job ins't completed yet, BUT ..... use a bit of the discarded plastic pipe to fill the gap between copper pipes and grommet to stop water ingress (and a good smear of RTV too).R.

[gripper]

Neat job, Mine looks spookily similar though I've stuck with the plastic pipe from the tank. I've been trying to prove the flow of the red stuff by using a mirror and torch in the airbox, but no luck so far on the starter motor. Maybe the engine has to be at some decent (ie. running) speed before anything appears. I will probably syringe some oil into the intake during its initial run. Blast off is scheduled for Easter friday. I suppose Monday would be better, something to do with rising from the dead.Dave

[gripper]

Start up was almost first press of the button, I nearly dropped dead. Managed to rig up a syringe to feed 60ml of comp 2 into the intake but when this had run out, the smoke stopped, despite the pump being at a wide open setting. Stopped the engine and learned from Richard about the little bleed screw on the pump. Oil was already there! I ended up with a modified socket in an electric drill to spin the pump over to fill the copper pipes as far as the Wade connector, then filled the remaining pipes into the engine with some oil through a length of IV drip tubing (handy these nurses) The pump would have taken quite a long time to fill the new pipe and the engine woud have starved of oil. Will fire it all up again at the weekend once the gearbox cover is back on. Watch this space.

[gripper]

Thinking all was well in the world, I took the IP for a shake down run prior to going for an MOT. Got about a mile and had to push it home. No life from the LH rotor, (nearly no life in me after pushing it a mile) Now here's the embarassing bit. After checking the ignition system out the symtoms indicated fuel starvation but plenty of fuel at the carb. I removed the carb and noticed that the slide was reluctant to lift. Removed the vacuum chamber and slide/piston/needle and out dropped a 8mm washer from the intake to frame screw! it had got past the needle and was sat in the scoop for the tickover bleed pipe. I must be the luckiest Bast--d in nato. You can imagine what would have happened if it had got past there. I knew that I had dropped the washer but after searching for it inside the frame etc I presumed that it had fallen on the floor and rolled off somewhere. The bike is now running but I'm struggling with tickover adjustment and may need an extra spring on the throttle butterflies to close them fully. The other annoying thing is an oil leak down the back of the engine. Whilst I nipped up the two oil feed pipes properly, it would appear that there is the faintest weep coming from one of them finding its way down the outer back edge of the centre plate. There seems to be more oil dripping than is apparent at the union and the wade connectors are dry. I can't think of anywhere else that the oil would come from and I don't really want to take the engine out just to tighten up these two unions. Any ideas?

[gripper]

I'm a little concerned that although I've set the oil pump to a high setting for running in, there seems to be a healthy (or unhealthy) flow of smoke from the RH rotor and very little from the LH rotor. In view of the fact that the air feeding the carbs is from a common plenum chamber ie. the frame, can anybody suggest why there is a difference between the two levels of smoke?

[gripper]

Well I removed the engine to sort out the leak as it is almost impossible to get on the oil pipe unions. I tried making up some copper pipes and I turned up some new stainless unions but I could not get them to seal up against the concave ended tube inside the centre plate. I ended up refitting the original pipes and spending a nerve-wracking session gradually nipping up the unions until they stopped weeping. They are now very tight. The engine is back in and starting to accrue all its ancillaries. I took the time to fill the pipes from the air intake end to the pump, to ensure a supply from the first start. It's amazing how quickly you can get the engine in and out when you know how it all fits together. Tune in next week for another exciting episode.