VCR's

johnbirchjar
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VCR's

Postby johnbirchjar » Sat Jun 30, 2018 11:25 pm

Hi guys,The replacement "Voltage Control Regulator"(now known as Regulator Rectifiers)supplied to me by "Electrix World" for the duff one sold to me for the Classic(It would only charge to 13v at the battery)has now followed suit after just 4months & thirteen hundred miles evil,needless to say I am not best pleased,so can anyone recommend a VCR that will charge at the battery at least 13.75(it needs at least this to power 'leclic pump,+fan + twin head lights ect: and keep the battery fully charged)I should think the ones supplied with the Police Commanders were at least that powerful.
On a different note wink,took the Honda for it's MOT on Wednesday,nasty surprise,knackered rear wheel bearing,after only thirty-five and a half thousand miles exclaim,that and the fact I had to have the Front Forks re-chromed after 4 yes 4 sets of fork seals in the said 35,000 miles,who said Honda's were bomb proof wink,J.B.

Anthony Duffield
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Re: VCR's

Postby Anthony Duffield » Sun Jul 01, 2018 3:38 pm

John,

The alternator on my Commander has an output of 220 watt, 12 volts 3 phase, any 3 phase 12 volt regulator/rectifier with an output of the same as the alternator will do what you want. Note that you could fit a 300 watt regulator/rectifier but you would still only get what the alternator can provide.

Are you sure your alternator is OK?

Try:

http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyelectrex.htm

It might be best to speak to someone with some electrical knowledge have you thought of trying Ferritt at http://www.motorcyclewiring.co.uk/home-page.

Tony

johnbirchjar
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Re: VCR's

Postby johnbirchjar » Sun Jul 01, 2018 11:25 pm

Hi Tony,the alternators are virtually bomb proof Very Happy,and visually mine is ok(the one off the Classic I had to have repaired'cos the "plates"?were lifting,but nothing like that is wrong with the Commander one)
I did an experiment today by having the engine rev at a steady 2500rpm,switch on all the electrics and watch as the voltmetre crept from 13.5 to just below 12v.(even the 13.5 is wrong,it should be 13.75)
I have removed it from the bike and it is now parceled up and waiting to be posted smiley,I will report anon of Electrex Worlds
findings,J.B.

Anthony Duffield
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Re: VCR's

Postby Anthony Duffield » Mon Jul 02, 2018 9:04 am

John,

Where is the volt meter connected, direct at the battery terminals?

Tony

johnbirchjar
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Re: VCR's

Postby johnbirchjar » Mon Jul 02, 2018 11:05 pm

Yep,J.B.

Anthony Duffield
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Re: VCR's

Postby Anthony Duffield » Wed Jul 04, 2018 2:30 pm

John,

Will you be at the In Steam Rally in Norfolk this month?

Tony

johnbirchjar
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Re: VCR's

Postby johnbirchjar » Wed Jul 04, 2018 11:05 pm

Yes,hopefully on the Commander/Classic,(if Electrix World get their bum into gear and send me a replacement R/R,)otherwise I'll be on the Honda Very Happy,see you there,ride safe,J.B.

johnbirchjar
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Re: VCR's

Postby johnbirchjar » Sat Jul 07, 2018 9:08 pm

Hi guys,The saga continues.
I have the RR back from Elctrix World,they say it is fine(300W Gen:) making 14.36V with no load,and 13.56V loaded
They seem to think my problem stemmed from poor Quality connectors,so I fit new connectors Very Happy, It made not the slightest difference exclaim, as the RR warms up the volts drop off,oh and even from cold it never registers more than 13.80v even with no load evil,so by the time the engine gets to 80/90o there are not enough volts to keep up with demand,and even with only one H/light on there are only 12.25v.
I wonder if it's the Voltmetre thats at fault? red face,But, that still would not explain the "Drop Off" as the RR warms up.
Is there anyway I can test the Voltmetre without a "Test Metre"?OR, if someone would be kind enough to loan me a RR to see how that performs Very Happy.I await your imput,rgds,J.B.

Anthony Duffield
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Re: VCR's

Postby Anthony Duffield » Tue Jul 10, 2018 3:03 pm

John,

If the volts drop off as it warms up I suspect the alternator insulation is breaking down shorting the windings.

However if it was my problem I would ask an auto electrician to do the following:

A. Measure and record the resistance of the stator windings cold, you will need a good meter for this and the alternator leads must be disconnected from the rest of the bikes wiring, the meter I use for this kind of work is a Fluke 77

B. With the alternator, RR and battery connected as normal run the engine and measure at 2000 RPM the AC three phase voltage, phase to phase the voltage must be the same. Record the readings

C. Once warmed up measure the AC voltage again and record the readings

D. Stop the engine, disconnect the alternator and measure the resistance and record the readings

If the above proves satisfactory i.e. resistance compares hot or cold, AC voltage is the same across all three phases hot or cold, I would next measure the current (amperes) between RR and battery.

The auto electrician will know how to do this, if you want me to explain let me know.

Good luck

Tony

johnbirchjar
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Re: VCR's

Postby johnbirchjar » Wed Jul 11, 2018 12:19 am

Hi Tony,I never suspected the Alternator red face.
A couple of things happened today you may be able to answer,(A)The 3 wires from the Alternator got very warm,(as did the RR,I mean VERY WARM,like, burning the fingers HOT evil)(B)Then no charging at the battery,disconnect RR and connect Multimetre to the Red & Black wires from the RR,rev engine to 2500/3000rpm 11/12v? (not very promising,)re-connect RR,still no charge at the battery,investigation finds blown fuse,lots of sparks when trying to fit new fuse,disconect RR,insert new fuse,no sparks,re-connect RR,fuse blows,conclusion,short in the RR?
Would this cause the 3 wires from the Alternator to run very warm? rgds,J.B.

Anthony Duffield
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Re: VCR's

Postby Anthony Duffield » Wed Jul 11, 2018 6:59 am

John,

(A)The 3 wires from the Alternator got very warm,(as did the RR,I mean VERY WARM,like, burning the fingers HOT evil)

This indicates shorts in the connections between the alternator and RR

(B)Then no charging at the battery,disconnect RR and connect Multimetre to the Red & Black wires from the RR,rev engine to 2500/3000rpm 11/12v? (not very promising,)re-connect RR,still no charge at the battery,investigation finds blown fuse,lots of sparks when trying to fit new fuse,disconect RR,insert new fuse,no sparks,re-connect RR,fuse blows,conclusion,short in the RR? Would this cause the 3 wires from the Alternator to run very warm?

Section K "Electrical System" of the Commander workshop manual explains how the charging system works and how to test it, it does say not to run the engine with the RR disconnected.

Fault finding and repairing auto electrics is not easy, I would suggest you find someone with the appropriate skill set to help you get the bike back on the road.

Regards
Tony

johnbirchjar
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Re: VCR's

Postby johnbirchjar » Wed Jul 11, 2018 4:49 pm

Hi Tony, Sounds like good advice,I think I'll do just that Very Happy,many thanks for your input,ride safe,J.B.


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