Rotary Owners' Club

JB's solution, clothes pegs, works very well; I used a short length of rubber petrol pipe, slotted along its length to fit over the stem of the choke knob. When I lost that, I just bent the stem slightly to create a bit more friction. Another solution is to 'ride it like you stole it' for the first ...

I'm struggling to remember what Mark's bike looks like and why it has two brown wires to the fan switch, and the single blue output to the fan. But, in the standard set-up, the fan has a dedicated fuse with an orange wire from it to the fan switch and then another orange wire from the switch to the ...

Brown wires to the switch, as in Mark's photo, are power in to the switch Blue wires is power out to the fan. At the fan connection, you'll find a black wire which is ground for the fan motor. If memory is correct, the standard production loom had orange wires at the fan switch; could be wrong thoug...

"A picture's worth a thousand words"

Well done.

John, I haven't got a better photo to show you where things are in that area. .the fan switch is the big brass lump with a 22mm hexagon and two blade terminals .alongside that is either the thermistor or the temperature switch, fixed to the engine by two small screws. ..the thermistor is an aluminiu...

John, Take care with cheap seal kits! I think it was on another thread that I mentioned a manufacturing fault with a pattern, ie branded Tourmax, seal kit. The piston secondary seal, which should stop fluid escaping from the reservoir when the lever is pulled, doesn't fit tightly on the piston and c...

John, Julian developed and makes the TT1 boxes. Compared to the Boyer, they're modern technology with a re-programmable chip so you could, if required, have one with a different rev limit or different retard curve. This is the thermistor:- 4002-03-2.jpg A temperature switch fits in exactly the same ...

Tony, I forgot to mention a significant difference between Boyer and TT1 boxes. With the switch/thermistor connected and a hot engine, the Boyer is at full retard at cranking speed which makes re-starting difficult sometimes. The TT1 was designed such that, under the same starting conditions, it giv...

Hi Both, Boyer and TT1 ignitions have a built-in retard curve dependent only on engine speed. Above about 2000 rpm they run at full advance until the rev limiter is reached. At that point a huge retard effectively causes a bad misfire at about 9,000 rpm. Below 2000 rpm, the ignition gradually retard...

I see there's what appears to be a complete, new, gearbox assembly for a W2000.
Lot 160 if anyone is interested.

Morning John!
Now there's a coincidence, another Whale #60.
These must be 30 years old - I wonder if they're still made.

JB,
I've just done one.
The seals look similar but are not the same. The primary seal has small slots moulded into the diameter.

JB, It's a Yamaha part fitted to various models of 1988'ish era, including FZ750, FXR1000, etc.. Kits are available on Ebay, but beware of the 'Tourmax' branded ones as the secondary rubber seal is not correct and could pose a hazard. The genuine item has Yamaha part number 36Y.W0041.00, is usually ...

You can take out the complete gear set, including the sleeve gear, without removing the sprocket. You do, however, need to remove the oil pump and the sprocket cover plate. Depending on your machine's age and mod history, you may then find a bug nut holding the sprocket to the sleeve gear or a circl...

I don't think it's too critical. The Commander yellow plastic cap is 1.1 bar, the F1 original metal is stamped 1.0 bar. The higher the pressure, the higher the temperature at which the system will boil - and the more likely it is to be incontinent. Your boiling problem might be that the cap isn't ac...

BlackIP2 wrote:I know the engine has been worked on recently and the chain must have been split - not by me though.
...

If it is the engine that has been worked on, it is usual to separate it from the gearbox, leaving that in the chassis with no need to disturb the rear drive.

That other bit of debris I found in the chain gaiter is a very thin metallic piece with some writing on it. It was bent in half when I dug it out and I straightened it out just to see what it was: Chain debris.jpg . Ho Hum! That bit of debris is the bit of tin that old-time mechanics wrapped around...

Next stop, Andover, but try as I might, I could not find a suitable link and the Classic parts book lists the chain (112 links) but no split link or rivet link so I didn't have a part number. ) I've just tried again using Richard's part number, In their part numbering files, AN use a dot in stead o...

When all else fails, try Andover! Part number 55.1428/REN appears (!) to be a stock item. There are rivet links to fit other chain brands too. Some bikes originally had DID - use 55.1428/ES50 for those. For the F1, use 55.1428/530MVX. Do you have a better photo of the other bit you found? After the ...

Clean oil, you say? First thought - a leaking Koni damper. Second thought, horror of horrors - a leaking oil tank. Do you use mineral oil or Silkolene? A rusted tank section usually drips on the floor. I think I mentioned earlier that with oil in the rear drive, the chain won't attack the gaiters. B...

I think you must be clairvoyant Not really - it's like the car salesman said to me in 1979 when I complained about the whiny noise from the transmission of my six-month old SAAB "Yes Sir, they all do that". Three months later, whine became crunch and it needed a replacement gearbox, under...

Quick - buy a lottery ticket! You're a lucky boy today. The secret to riveting the chain is a hot air gun to heat the front convolutions of the gaiter and push the gaiter forward inside itself. That gives you enough space at the rear to fix the chain and still have room for the riveting tool. The sp...

If the oil is dripping on the wheel side of the sprocket cover, then it's the big seal that's failed. Anywhere else and it will be the lower chain gaiter, probably at the convolutions at the rear end of it. Short term fix is to wash the area thoroughly to remove all signs of oil and then bandage it ...

[quote="Mick Taylor"]I take it the solder 'snot' should not touch the sleeve bolt?...... That poses interesting questions. Yes, the 'snot' is clamped to the housing by the sleeve bolt, but surely if either of the bare wires touch and is grounded, it wouldn't work? Does the sleeve bolt real...

My photos of your engine from 2012 (!) clearly show that your thermocouple is in the standard, left, position. I like the look of the bolts you found - just wondering where I could use them. Just a blob of silver solder, without setting fire to the plastic insulation, and then pull the softened insu...

Sorry to say this - but if your thermocouple is now in the right housing, it suggests that there's already a broken one in the left .

The thermocouple itself rarely fails, corroded terminals at the connection perhaps. The common problem is taking the thermocouple out before powder coating or replacing the housing - and the brass sleeve shears off. As left and right housings are identical (except for the early single rotor idle one...

The challenge of this thermocouple is that it's not the conventional K-type wire. A few years ago, I did look into making a small batch but the wire, which I think was A-type, required the purchase of a 100 metre reel at something like £300. The thermocouple works by joining two dissimilar metal wir...

It CERTAINLY wasn't meant to be like that! The aluminium mount plate for the caliper is machined with all the bores parallel and the torque arm should be straight with the bushes welded on at a slight angle. With the grease nipple at the 9 o'clock position, your plate is one of the early ones. Later...

I know the engine very well indeed. It was the engine Richard trained me on. Runs very well indeed Hi Paul - are you sure? The bike is actually 4180, not 4280, and I did a full engine & gearbox job on 4180 in 2011 for the then owner, Tony. Added a hydraulic clutch and powder-coated the wheels, ...